Pieją na blogach panowie
Kaskrut to restauracja co się zowie!
Pieją na łamach panie
kto tam wejdzie, już zostanie!
Do Kaskrut wszedłem z lekkim niepokojem – wychwalana pod niebiosa, nazywana skarbem czy sekretem, z dnia na dzień stała się oczkiem w głowie warszawskich „foodies”. Uzbrojony w łyżkę, widelec i nóż (no i aparat), wybieram się weryfikować peany moich poprzedników udając przy tym, że to co przeczytałem nie ma na mnie wpływu.
Lokal znajduje się na ulic Poznańskiej, którą niedawno odwiedziłem w ramach ponownego otwarcia Tel Aviv. Generalnie, powodów do wizyt w okolicy nie brakuje: chociażby śniadania w Lenivcu, czy najlepsze w mieście Long Island Ice Tea w Tortilla Factory. Pionowy neon Kaskrut, nawiązujący do casse croute (przekąska) pokazuję drogę do wąskich schodków, prowadzących do niewielkiej sali. W środku bardziej barowo, niż restauracyjne – długie blaty i otwarta przestrzeń, którą dopiero po chwili zidentyfikowałem jako kuchnię. Menu jest zmienne, zależnie od dnia, i wypisane białym mazakiem na lustrze. Znajdowało się tuż za naszymi plecami, co znacznie utrudniało wybór dań, ale zdecydowaliśmy: moja partnerka wybrała zupę dnia „papryka / zioła”, do tego risotto z selerem i serem murber, ja poszedłem w kierunku nieco już odkrytym. Poliki wołowe, które poznałem w Yellow Dogu, tu wybrałem w wersji z przegrzebkiem w sosie barbecue, do tego kanapeczka z kurczakiem, gorczycą i kiszoną kapustą. Czuję, że źle zrobiłem przyglądając się całemu procesowi przygotowania potraw – zauważyłem, że kucharz oblizał łyżkę, którą mieszał zupę, po czym położył ją na brudnym blacie i… ponownie wsadził do garnka. Jestem jak najbardziej za próbowaniem dań przed podaniem ich do stolika, ale to odebrało mi apetyt. Hipotezą mojej towarzyszki był spostrzeżenie, że może to sposób na odreagowanie stresu związanego z pracą w otwartej kuchni. Hmm…
Zaczynamy od polików wołowych – tak mała porcja, a może dostarczyć tyle satysfakcji! Jak już kiedyś pisałem, mięso to jest wyjątkowo delikatne i ma przyjemną fakturę, dobrze komponowało się z dodatkami. Zupa towarzyszce smakowała bardzo, jednak jak dla mnie była trochę monotonna i nudnawa, bez dominującej nuty smakowej. Ot, krem, który mógłby być zrobiony z czegokolwiek z podobnym skutkiem. Kanapka przypomina amerykański trend, białe pieczywo z kapustą i sporą ilością majonezu. Duże kawałki kurczaka nie chciały trzymać się wnętrza, dlatego nie byłem pewny: jeść rękami, czy sztućcami? Wybrałem opcję pierwszą, w końcu kanapka to szczyt inżynierii kuchennej – danie, które możesz zjeść dłońmi unikając zabrudzenia. Niemal się udało. Kanapka satysfakcjonująca, ale zbyt standardowa – gorczyca nie winduje jej na wyżyny. Risotto natomiast wzbudziło nasze żywe reakcje: towarzyszce zdecydowanie nie smakowało, natomiast ja uznałem je za bardzo udane. Może wizualnie nie jest zachęcające, na pierwszy rzut okaz przypominając kleik ryżowy polany sporą ilością tłuszczu, jednak połączenie orzechów, sera pleśniowego i gęstej konsystencji daje bardzo wyrazisty smak, który sprawdziłby się świetnie z wytrawnym winem.
Kaskrut to miejsce wyjątkowe, prezentujące zróżnicowaną kuchnię. Moja wizyta nie pozwala mi jednak powtórzyć zachwytów braci kulinarnej, nie tylko z powodu uchybień sanitarnych, ale dlatego, że jedzenie było tylko/aż dobre. Nie rozumiem też, dlaczego nie byłem w stanie zarezerwować telefonicznie miejsca w języku polskim, nie mam problemów z angielskim, jednak nie każdemu może to przypaść do gustu. Kaskrut to – zgodnie z nazwą – dobre miejsce na przekąskę.
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Hi Damian,
Thank you for your review…
But i just have a comment to do… 😉
We have an open kitchen just to have an honest vision of what our chefs are doing.
We have nothing to hide.
All our chefs taste everything before to serve it.
On our fridges , we have a container with a lot of spoon and water.
When a chef taste something , he is putting his spoon in the container and takes another one from the container to pour the food in the plates.
You was sitting on the bar and you wasn’t able to see the container.
Some other customers already made the same comments and we were happy to explain them how we proceed.
Ps : i’ll try to improve my polish asap! 😉